Opting Outside in Calabria, Italy
homesick for fresh air and cold water
What I am homesick for in Italy is not something I have found. I want to be walking down the street and by asked for a tarot reading, or for someone to assume my lower back pain can be resolved with a psilocybin trip. I miss farmer’s markets where bare-footed hippies playing the didgeridoo make me smile (and then thank me for my smile).
And more than anything, I miss leaving it all and escaping into the mountains of Mammoth, the desert of Anza Borrega, or the forest of Cuyamaca. We could go from hiking in the forest to driving through the desert to drinking a beer on the ocean all in one single day! Napoli can be stifling due to the overpopulation and poor air quality. Not to mention, Italy has a certain refined air about it in which drum circles are not normal.
Craving an escape into nature, in February we decided to take a weekend trip to the neighboring region of Calabria to experience the south’s great outdoors. Although we left the van at home in California, we do have my 13 year old Ford Fiesta which has lovingly carried me through every adventure I’ve been on in my adult life. We were able to comfortably fit our inflatable Isle paddle boards into the trunk and our Yeti cooler in the back, and four hours later we were down the coast to Calabria, the region known for its two famous foods: purple onions and nduja.
This near perfect weekend, the weather graced is with a sunny 70 degrees and the water a balmy 58 (the same as a sunny winter day in California!). Not to mention, it seemed we had Calabria to ourselves.
We started the day adventuring the Capo Vaticano, a stunning peninsula perched over Caribbean blue waters. We spotted a secret beach and decided to paddle to it, as it was only accessible by sea. After launching from a nearby beach, I got so excited I almost paddled to Sicily. Mr. Brenna said that I was smiling so hard he could see my grin from the shore.
There is something about paddle boarding that brings me to complete serenity. I am definitely in meditation, as there is no time to worry about your upcoming appointments or if your friend is offended by something you said - you have to focus on the water, the timing of the waves, your balance. You have to appreciate the power of now, because the next moment the wind could shift, the tides could change, and your balance could be thrown off. You have to honor the ocean, or it will make remind you who’s in control. One wrong move and you’re overboard. Many times, I have tried to over power the ocean. I have paddled myself silly, bordering Mexico, only to tire myself out, fall in, and leave Mr. Brenna to rescue me from my stubbornness.
This time I took it slow, embracing the tranquility of the calm and clear water. Upon commandeering the beach, I immediately took a refreshing cold dip and laid out in the sun, the Vitamin D recharging my drained batteries.
After enjoying Tropea for the evening, we drove northwards and settled in Scalea, because we wanted to paddle the famous Grotta della Pecora. We rushed to settle in so we could paddle before sunset. I admit, I did not want to go. I was tired; the sun was setting and it was getting colder. Mr. Brenna pushed me and said we should give it a shot. I threw on a sweatshirt and started pumping up my paddle board, racing against the clock. Holy heck I’m glad I did.
We were completely alone on the water. Not a boat, not a tourist, not another human being to be found. We cruised into the grotto, and the arches covered us into an isolated cove. We headed out again to be greeted by the sound of the ocean crashing against the rocks, the birds singing happily as the golden hues of sun hit the rocks.
Our last day, we stayed on land. We hiked to Baia degli Infreshi which is technically just north of Calabria in southern Campania. It was a challenging “out and back” day hike. Unlike the meditation of paddling, hiking feels painfully heavy. Instead of a clearing of the mind’s chatter, a wide chasm suddenly becomes available to fill with all of my worried thoughts. There are no distractions, no iphone notifications, only the trail and putting one foot in front of another. This is why I love to hike - not because I love a tortuous climb, but because I have the time and space to worry all I want, until clarity comes. I often have my best ideas while I am hiking. Then I am rewarded with a view, a swim, or a nice snack (let’s be real, sometimes I’m bribed with a nice snack).
This time, we were greeted at the bottom with a completely isolated bay. Although it wasn’t sunny enough for an entire dip before we hiked back, the pebbles on my feet were a welcome massage after the long hike. We took our time at the bay, eating our packed Italian pizzettes, nuts, and oranges.
By the time we arrived back at the car it was late afternoon. We still had a long drive back to Napoli, but as we slipped out of our hiking boots and re-assessed the snacks, we climbed into the car feeling a little bit more like ourselves.
What about you? Do you live in a place that has access to nature? Do you crave the outdoors?
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Attempted camping for the first time last weekend at Hickory Run Campground with a bunch of guys. We did a 9 mile hike during the morning and afternoon. The weather was cold and raining but we all felt good. My back did not hurt at all. The stream crossings were a challenge because of all the rain we have had recently and also very comical as we debated the appropriate route. Afterwards during the search for beer in White Haven , we stumbled upon the Tavern on the Trail. Had some soup to warm up and headed back to camp. Sleeping was almost non-existent for me - as the temps were hitting the mid 30's and it was windy. I was cold and distracted by the noise and not being able to see outside the tent. I moved to the car at 1AM and did not sleep much there either. Got up at 6:30, sun was shining and went on a hike in the nice weather while the others slept until 9. Then visited Jim Thorpe on the way home. First time there too. I loved it. Overall a pleasant trip. Who needs sleep.
Wow what a beautiful corner of the country. Italy has been on my list for far too long, but I know that I will get there in time. Thanks for sharing!