Cairo, Egypt

awake in the shadow of 5,000 year old megaliths

Cairo is an untamable beast. It has a wild, unharnessed energy, such that I sometimes wonder: did I live in Cairo, or did Cairo live in me? I spent two years amid that tangled knot of bridges and freeways, of ramshackle buildings that look as though they’ll crumble any second (and in fact, sometimes do). The city expands constantly, spreading out from the center like spilled molasses and encroaching on the desert sands, which every few months rise up in a flurry and turn the sky from blue to tangerine. It’s the sort of place that elicits strong feelings; people either despise Cairo, or they adore it, both for and in spite of its unruliness. 

I fall firmly into the latter camp. Forget the traffic and the smell of petrol settling into your clothes--where else can you awake in the shadow of 5,000 year old megaliths, wander through remnants left by the Greeks and the Romans and the Mamluks and the Ottomans, and then rest in the gardens of a villa or on the river, sipping cool, sweet hibiscus juice? Beneath Cairo's clutter is hidden treasure.

Here are some of the jewels I’ve found. 

Coffee and a Pastry

Lovely coffee shops and bakeries can be found all over Cairo, but there is one that stands head and shoulders above the rest: Ratios. It’s not even a contest. At the risk of being banned from entering France for the rest of my life, I have to say that Ratios’ pastries are better than any I’ve had in Paris. (The owners are a French-Egyptian couple, if that makes it any better? If anyone at the French foreign ministry is reading, please don’t blacklist me!) My husband and I used to either order from or dine in at Ratios at least once a week, rotating between the everything bagel croissant, the sticky cinnamon bun, the chocolate croissant loaf, and the creamy spinach and artichoke danish. Ratios is so good that they were invited to open a location in the new Grand Egyptian Museum’s atrium–a shopping hall whose entire purpose is to exhibit the very best goods the country has to offer. 

If that wasn’t enough to convince you, Ratios partners with Fyngan Premium Coffee—one of the very best roasters in a city that is serious about its beans—for espresso drinks. The baristas are friendly, and they make a mean cappuccino. While Ratios’ two locations in the Maadi neighborhood are a bit out of the way of Cairo’s main tourist attractions, they are well worth the detour. Take a seat on one of the lush patios, giggle at the mischief of the shop cats, and savor every last flake of that gorgeous pain au chocolat.

Culture

There are so many world-famous tourist sites, art galleries, and museums in Cairo that it can be hard to focus on just one. One of my personal favorites, though, is a bit more off the beaten track. The Prince Mohammad Ali Palace—also known as Manial Palace—is an estate once owned by the dynasty that ruled Egypt until the monarchy’s abolition in 1953. It’s an oasis in the middle of the city, with sprawling grounds, its own tile-walled mosque, and luxe throne rooms. But the best thing about the Manial Palace is the cluster of sitting rooms in the main house. They are a blend of Moroccan, Turkish, Arab, and Western design styles, each one more beautiful than the last. It’s a feast for the eyes. (Also, the palace boasts a small hunting museum that will have you in stitches if you, like me, find bad taxidermy to be riotously funny.)  

Adventure

Simply existing in Cairo is an adventure. The city is big and chaotic enough that weird things are simply bound to happen; that’s part of its charm. But if I had to choose one activity, I would tell you to take a felucca ride on the Nile around dusk and watch the blood-orange sun sink beneath the skyline. The city noise melts away once you’re out on the water, and if you’re lucky, a light breeze will kiss your cheeks. Cafelluca can be booked in advance and offers meal options…but if you’re feeling brave, I’d recommend you grab takeout from Zööba and flag down one of the boat captains along the Nile corniche. Just don’t forget to negotiate the price before sailing away! 

Samantha Childress is the author of Caravanserai, a newsletter for thinkers, daydreamers, and adventurers. She writes essays about travel and expat life that explore the inner journeys happening in parallel with our real-world excursions. Each season, Sam releases a series of travel guides, spilling her secrets on where to stay, eat, shop, and find the best fridge magnets around the globe—click here to check out her posts on Portugal, Guatemala, and Egypt. Her newest batch of guides, which will focus on Norway, Greece, and Cyprus, drops June 13!