Napoli is not Italy
I have spent four months living in Napoli now, enough time to sample the pasta, be counseled by my taxi driver, and move past first impressions. Especially now that the heat is dying down, I’m seeing Napoli with fresh eyes. And even better, I’m getting the hang of it!
Something I’ve began to understand is that like the United States, there is a huge cultural difference between the “North” and the “South”. As a country, Italy is pretty new, but before they were unified there was a very long history of inhabitants, conquerors, and religious domination. From my American brained understanding, the north was full of city and papal states, participating in the industrial revolution, benefiting from commerce with other countries in the north, and growing its population. The “south” had an agriculture based economy with lack of commerce access. Today, the south of Italy has higher rates of poverty and unemployment. Northern Italy is known for being the economic stronghold (think car manufacturing of Turin, global fashion brands in Milan) and Northerners tend to regard Southerners in a pejorative manner. Needless to say, the Southerners are not one to let things go. When Napoli won the “scudetto” or the Italian national soccer championships (similar to the Superbowl), there were actual American confederate flags hanging around, which were intended to symbolize the strength of the “south” (I do not think Napolitani understood what the flag symbolizes to an American).
What I hear from Italians is that “Napoli is not Italy”. Interestingly enough, similar to my own hometown of Philadelphia, when the rest of the country makes fun of them - they LEAN INTO it. If people will say that about them - they’ll embrace it! They speak their own language, they have a distinct mindset, and they are even PROUD to be considered Non-Italian.
Napoli is also the third most populated city in Italy after Rome and Milan, and it is one of the most densely populated cities in Europe. Napoli was founded in 470 B.C. (!) and has since had a mix of rulers including the Greeks, Spaniards, Bourbons, Romans. I have found the “casual” Greek ruins to be extremely impressive - you will “stumble” upon an amphitheater as part of your daily commute. It’s amazing to thing about the philosophy, art, literature, and other contributions to the world were happening right here in Naples!
Napoli has a reputation for being “skipped” by tourists for the Amalfi - but when you look past the graffiti, venture past the pizza crust, and dodge the mopeds - there is so much to see and do. There’s the liquid dripping blood of Saint Januarius, the creamy taste of local buffalo milk mozzarella and ricotta, artists who have opened their doors to me in sunny welcomes, earthquakes, kayaking, soccer, sunsets, and passion! My new lullaby is the screams from my neighbors when the Napoli soccer team is playing.
Now that I’m feeling more comfortable, I’m looking forward to getting out more this fall, exploring more of the other regions of Italy as well as getting to know the country side of our Campania region. Until next week!
Beautiful things I read this week:
Jillian Anthony’s article this week about the illusion of job security. I think this article pins exactly what Millennials struggle with as we witness the sacrifices made by our parents, and hits the nail on the head of how the author tends to tackle it.
Kelton Wright’s “What it Means to Make Something: Pregnancy vs. Art”. I was speechless and teary eyed after reading this. A moving piece about the depths of creation.
Liz McCrocklin’s “Women without Children” Liz beautifully articulates how meaningful it can be to show up for other people’s children. I am really missing interacting with kids in Italy.