the Italian art of the coffee bar
what does coffee mean to our culture and to ourselves?
In Italy, it is common to go to the coffee shop to have your breakfast in the morning. Last week I committed to a daily practice of frequenting my local bar every day in a fancy neighborhood of Napoli called Chiaia. It was a cultural awakening to the Italian art of the Italian coffee experience.
The chic Neapolitans arrive in droves, their linen suits and leather loafers are accessorized with the perfect chic sunglasses and styled hair.It often takes longer for the customers to greet everyone than it does to actually drink the coffee. Arriving inside, the clientele will the barristas loudly, shouting “ciao Mario, ciao Franco, ciao Angela” and they say hello to you, too. If you’re a local, they already know your order.
In a small, galley service area, each of the 8 different baristas have a duty. One person serves and clears dishes, another mans the espresso machine, and others run the cashier and bakery section. The orchestration that happens behind the scenes could be compared to the New York Philharmonic, with one person swiveling while the other shuffles, the rattling of the dishes harmonizing with the sound of the milk being steamed.
The first step is to go to the cashier and make your order. Your scontrino (receipt) is your ticket to breakfast paradise. Once you have your scontrino, you have permission to nestle your way to the bar. After elbowing your way up to a spot, the barista places a saucer and spoon in front of you, as well as a little cup of sparkling water, while another barista works on your coffee order. It’s socially acceptable to eat your pastry here, standing up, while you wait. I found this difficult, as Italians daintily wrap the pastry with a napkin and somehow avoid the snow shower of crumbs that inevitably fall out of my mouth.
The sacred shot of espresso is taken quickly down the gullet, like a shot of fernet, without much fanfare. This seems to be the ONLY meal in Italy that can be done in a rush. The quick swig is so different from the longer, more decadent meals Italians indulge in. After you are done, it’s common to leave a small tip of .50 euros. The whole affair lasts 10 minutes but I observe it as essential to the rhythm of life in Italy. Italians usually go back for coffee after lunch or to take a break with a colleague throughout the work day.
American “beaneries” offer a stark contrast. First of all, Americans like coffee “to go”. There are the obvious big-chain coffee houses that send you app reminders that your best friend likes her venti chais whipped, which focus mostly on convenience. I tried to explain to my Italian teacher why Americans like having coffee to go and came up short: do we like to sip our iced lattes in big plastic takeaway cups so we can continue to complete the multitude of tasks assigned to us throughout our day? Or do we like having our coffee in a private moment of solitude at home? On the other end of the spectrum, frequenting community and design-focused coffee houses offer quality products with a side of hustle culture. It’s popular in America to hunt for coffee shop real estate and parking for the day. Italians would never dream of bringing a laptop to a cafe or a bar. Is this becoming yet another symbol of class and status in the US?
I switched to decaf coffee some time ago, so I go for a decaf cappuccino, which luckily is common in Italy - but only before 11 AM! Afternoon cappuccinos are taboo as they are seen to disturb digestion. There is nothing worse to an Italian than a disruption of digestion.
I have to confess, in a moment of homesickness, I did buy an American coffee on base here last week. During a hot day, the ice is life-giving! I think it’s important to be mindful of the choices we make, especially our daily habits. I know exactly what the daily trip to the coffee shop represents for me: assimilating into society, finding pleasure in food and drink, being without a laptop or phone, practicing Italian, and even advocating for myself (if you stand back in the coffee shop Italians will step up). What resonates with you? Do you have any coffee habits? What shapes them?
Love this! One of the things I missed the most after COVID was sitting in a coffee shop for hours with friends. I’ve only just started doing it again. In Vermont there are multiple no screens cafes where you have to sit and talk!
Does it take that much more time to greet everyone and drink it in one gulp, or is the timing on par with taking it to go? Also how is learning Italian going?
The first time we realized that standing at the bar was how the locals did it, b/c the bar was packed in the a.m. w/ locals, we bellied up! Never to take a seat in the morning again, haha. Loved that so much.