weekend in Umbria

welcome to truffle country

It has been fun to explore more regions of Italy! This summer, I got the hang of Campania, Puglia, and as the fall has crept around I checked out Umbria. My friends said it was the “budget Tuscany”. I didn’t know what to expect when I booked an agriturismo in a town I had never heard of before.

I was really blown away by the beauty of Umbria. It seemed like peak “fall” - it is a bit cooler and the rolling hills showcased the trees changing colors. The towns are tucked away at the bottom of the slopes that are hidden beneath the mountains. As far as the eye can see, it’s olive groves, vineyards, and mountains.

We stayed at Agriturismo Collerisana, near Spoleto, Italy. During a stormy weekend, we felt cozy and tucked away. The property produced small batches of organic olive oil every year, and also had a seasonal hotel. There was a wood stove that was always crackling as we were served fresh coffee, eggs, veggies and olive oil.

It was also olive oil season, which means every meal, including breakfast, started with a big ‘ole swig of the freshly pressed “liquid gold”. In the past few years I’ve gone on a little bit of an oil kick - I use it as makeup remover, moisturizer, cleanser, etc. Taking a big ole spoonful of grassy, tangy olive oil feels incredibly decadent and healthy, like my skin is gulping down a big drink.

The nature surrounding Spoleto was stunning. We finally got back to the woods! We did a 10 mile hike up the mountains, past the roads of Franciscan pilgrimages, and passed mountain goats being shepherded by ferocious little dogs. While I stood back in fear, Wayne laughed at the little yappers.

After all that good nature, we topped off our Saturday with a little wine tasting visit to a woman owned, natural vineyard outside of Spoleto called “Terra di Rovo” or Land of the Brambles. Guilia, the owner, harvests according to the lunar cycle, so I knew it was the place for me! I was so impressed by her beautiful creation. The wine production took place inside a totally self-sustaining cellar. The rooftop and grass keeps the building cool and the solar panels provide all of the electricity. They don’t even water the grapes, as the vines grow on a southern facing slope and the humidity and rain water runoff lets nature do its job.

We loved the wine and we loved the company too. We also learned about this little grain that comes from Umbria called rojeva, which doesn’t even sound Italian with that funky little “j” in the middle there, but it’s a hearty pea that looks and tastes like a lentil, but with more texture. It was really yummy. Umbria is known for little “heirloom beans” like this!

The regional food of Italy always leaves us guessing when we go to a restaurant. We learned pretty quickly that not only was it olive oil season, it was also truffle season. White truffles, summer truffles, winter truffles - and the chefs of Umbria aren’t afraid to douse your pasta in rich, flavorful, shrooms with attitude. We found a tiny little restaurant in Montefalco and had one of the best meals of our lives. Inside Mordecai, art, books, and poetry fill the walls. Our appetizer was a meat and cheese bruschetta with heaps of shaved truffle on top. Wayne had a grain bowl with truffles and beef, and I had butter and sage ravioli. Another patron asked to buy some truffles from the owner, and he dumped a bag of black truffles on the table and negotiated the best deals and cooking recommendations to him. Black market black truffles.

After coffee, the owner of Mordecai gave me a delicious digestif, which put me in a hazy cloud of sunshine as I climbed back in the car to drive to Napoli. My husband predicted I would be asleep within a few minutes, and I almost didn’t make to the highway before I drifted off, mushrooms dancing above my head.